Professional Certified Sewing Machine Repair.

We work on most major brands, makes, and models of home sewing machines, sergers, embroidery machines, and long arm machines.

The Stitch Doctor

Dennis K. Howard

8219 Fremont Avenue

Lubbock, TX 79423

Call Us Today!

The Little Things Count

If you sew a lot, you know that it is the little things that count. When you want to produce the best project possible the details matter. What many sewing machine owners don’t realize the small things matter with their sewing machine more than they know.

bobbin and needle bar detail

Sewing machines have evolved tremendously over the last 150 years. We have gone from simple mechanical sewing machines producing a single straight, to computer controlled electronic machines. These new machines produce complex stitches and patterns.

But, at the heart of any sewing machine, the principles remain the same. A needle carries thread through the material. The top thread is pulled around the bobbin thread to form a stitch. The stitch is pulled tight, and the material is advanced so the process can happen again. It sounds like a very simple process until you examine the requirements of the engineering.

The Little Things

When it comes to sewing, the little things do count. Stitch length and stitch width are common measurements with which we are familiar. The distances and clearances within the workings of your sewing machine determine its ability to sew properly. There are three very important tolerances that must be set properly so that stitches form properly.

Needle Depth

How far the needle penetrates the material and goes into the bobbin area is one of the three critical distances. This distance must be properly set and maintained for you sewing machine to properly form stitches. If the needle doesn’t penetrate far enough, the hook may not engage the top thread to form the stitch. If the needle penetrates too far, a needle strike on the bobbin race can damage your machine.

Needle dept adjustment on a rotary hook

The needle depth depends on the style of bobbin used in your machine. Typically, the clearance tolerances for setting the needle depth on most machines is between 1.45 and 1.95 millimeters. That is one half a millimeter difference.

Needle to Hook Clearance

During the needle cycle when the loop is formed with the top thread the needle passes behind the hook. The clearance between the needle and the hook is critical. The slightest maladjustment can cause the stitch not to form properly.

This adjustment is critical because as the needle and hook travel the hook passes the scarf of the needle. If the needle is too far from the hook, the hook will fail to catch the loop. This causes dropped stitches. If the needle is too close to the hook, the needle may strike the hook or cut the thread.

timing on a rotary hook is one of the little things that cound

On most machines, this clearance is measured between 0.1 and 0.05 millimeters. For comparison, typical human hair is between 0.08 and 1.12 millimeters. There is not a lot of tolerance in these kinds of measurements.

Hook and Needle Timing

The third of these critical adjustments is the timing of the hook and needle. As the hook rotates it must arrive behind the needle at precisely the right moment. Too early or too late and the hook misses the loop. The needle must be within a few millimeters above or below the hook. Too high or too low and the stitch won’t form.

All of these adjustments are made individually. However, they must all happen at the correct time in the cycle as well. Each individual setting can be correct, but if the timing is not correct, the stitch won’t form.

The Importance of the little Things

Understanding of how small the adjustments are you can understand why routine care and maintenance are important. Most sewing machine owners do not have the tools or skill to set these sorts of clearances,.

Part of a full-service appointment with the Stitch Doctor ensures that the adjustments are all set properly. Along with proper cleaning, lubrication and inspection, we ensure your sewing machine ensure will perform to your satisfaction many years.

Call Now for Your Appointment

If your sewing machine has not had a full-service appointment within the last 12 months call us now. Pick up the phone and call to schedule a visit with the Stitch Doctor.

Call 806-252-4471 to book your machine appointment today. For more information you can contact us using our Contact Form.


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